Co To Island

Co To island was one of the most beautiful beaches I've been to in Vietnam, mostly for its stillness. However, it isn't for everyone and certainly not for those used to homey comforts. We stayed there two days, and Brennan admittedly found them to be the lowlight of the trip.

For starters, getting there was a struggle. It was midday, and the power was out in the docks. Our speedboat was delayed almost two hours, and the waves were brutal when we actually did depart. I landed on the island seasick and very hot.

We took a golf cart from the docks to the resort; the ride was actually one of my favourite parts. I loved taking in the sights and smells of daily life as we passed by -- the cows on the street, the clothes hanging outside on lines, the smiths at work.

I will admit I was expecting more when I'd heard our accommodations described as a newly opened resort. Having only stayed in resorts in Mui Ne or Da Nang, the most popular touristy beaches in the country, I had pictured a grander setting. We were instead met with wooden cabins that, despite having opened just several months prior, still managed to look worn.

The best part was the view. The front sides of the cabins were glass; the doors slid right out onto the sand, and the ocean was visible from bed.

The worst part was a tie between the heat and the bugs.

The resort was run off generators, which meant that electricity was only available certain hours of the day. As soon as we stepped outside, a staff person would turn our power off so there was no chance of cooling down the room. The owner had also never heard of screen doors, so it was a choice between a greenhouse-temperature cabin or bugs.

And they weren't just fruit flies. The mosquitoes around dusk were brutal and a spider the size of my face sat above us in the dining hall. On the second night, three cockroaches scurried out from under the bed and suitcases, and a nest of ants lay in a wood knot in our shower.

The living conditions weren't ideal, but I found it easy enough to make the most of the situation by spending the bulk of the day in the water. The ocean was lovely, and we had the place to ourselves. The lightning storm over the horizon was also a sight to remember. Though I probably wouldn't go back, I'm glad I got to be reminded of a part of the country less tailored to western tourism, with its natural beauty preserved.